backwaters

alleppey, india

ah, kerala. this southwestern indian state would provide wonderful pictures to adorn any calendar, especially for a year consisting of 12 july's. partially because the weather here is definitely sweat-inducing (though not rare in this country), but mostly because the idyllic landscapes of verdant palms and narrow channels would make anyone's annual vacation dreams come true. named the backwaters, this label refers to an intricate network of interconnected, natural waterways extending from the coast of the arabian sea well into the interior of the country. for centuries, locals and colonizers have navigated these canals and lagoons to transport the spices, coconuts, and crops produced by its fertile soils. these days, i am just one of many tourists being shuttled through for pure pleasure.

my past few days have included an afternoon canoe tour, a full-day ferry ride between two of the region's principal centers, and an evening of watching the sunset over a beautiful beach with locals. all have been exactly what the doctor ordered. besides the delicious consistent setting of soaring green palms over blue waters, there is the local flavor. there are the fishermen in their canoes, casting out or reigning in their nets. there are the men at waterside chai stands, drinking and smoking with their dress shirts tucked into the mundus (sarongs) wrapped around their lower halves. there are the women smacking their laundry against the rocks at the waters edge in what looks to be a more tedious process that one i use involving quarters. add to this the passing of the occasional shrine/church/mosque (they've got all three here, and a subtlely named 'jew town' as well), the loudspeaker playing traditional music or making a political announcement surrounded by serene silence on either end, and the clusters of schoolchildren frantically waving hello and you have my idea of transportation as entertainment.

misnomer?
in the heart of the eisenhower era, the people of kerala elected one of the earlier communist governments and has since maintained a system akin to democratic socialism. of course, the idealistic academics who ushered in a system that included land reform and increases in education have given way to kleptocrats using blue-collar speech while lining their own pockets with money from the connections only power can provide. still, kerala enjoys one of the highest standards of living in india (despite not really having industry or major commodities to export) and the literacy rate is well above 90. again, the system is far from infallible. yet i can't help but admire the timing of being in a state with some basic healthcare provisions for its populace while i read reports from u.s. america of people shouting down representatives in defense of thousand dollar ambulance rides. maybe this place is not quite the 'backwaters' it is supposed to be?

fashion and function
let's put the matter to rest. in the battle between style and comfort, india has to be the best place to be a woman. there is no place in the world (that i have seen) where the women are dressed so beautifully. they are clad in the richest, most vibrant colors and accessorize with some of the most refined accoutrements, all of which appear to be loose, flowing, and ridiculously comfortable. basically, if i were to crossdress, i would do it here (i haven't......yet). since they have the clothing, all they need are for their civil liberties to ascend from those of the medieval ages and the women here are good to go!

contact info
for those of you needing to get a hold of me tomorrow, i will be in bangalore during the course of the night in u.s. america. just call the tech support number provided the last time you bought a computer/television/phone/appliance/anything and tell them to look for the long guy with the long beard. can't wait to talk to you!

in case you were wondering
i would kill for a burrito. i would mame for a barbecue burger cooked medium rare with swiss. i would level whole villages to have a huge slab of vermont cheddar cheese or a fresh spicy tuna roll.