hampi-ness

hampi, india

if one were to take the rustic boulder croppings of moab, utah, scatter them in and amongst rice paddies and lush tropical vegetation of southeast asia, then sprinkle in centuries-old ruins, temples, with a dash of indian chaos, they would have hampi. fields of boulders extend into the horizon from both sides of the sinewy, strong river and the entire setting, from the hues of the setting sun to the pace of the sporadic, gentle rains, seems to subconsciously invite its inhabitants to slow down. a beach town without the beach. a holy town without the holiness. smiles without reason.

for some reason, easily understood yet impossible to define, hampi seems to be the place where so many come just before their return home. it looks to clearly be an entrypoint for the goa circuit, yet its more subdued vibe doesn't lend itself to glow sticks and heavy techno. instead, it has been where those who are looking for a bit of an indian decompression chamber can gather to swap stories from the rearview mirror, fears about the reintegration to the "real world" (quotes emphasized heavily), or to lose themselves in a late afternoon moped ride through the surrounding villages or a sunset from one of the bouldery crests.

in my opinion and experience, every trip needs a hampi. or a tofo, a mancora, a jericoacoara, a lamu, or any other place that's let you process all that's behind and what lies ahead. i still have one sun over a week remaining, but with that time spent in mumbai and delhi, or in transit to and between these places, i realize that this is my last gasp. vast reservoirs of serenity can dry the second a foot touches the floor of a railway station. the few drops that remain will certainly be challenged by the confronting intensity of india's two principal cities. that is not to say i do not look forward to being further shocked and stimulated by these urban behemoths, i dare say i love that aspect as well as anything. but it may not be the most desirable immediately before one reintegrates to their home far away.

and so i am here for one more night. thinking about past and future and ensuring i have enough light to give the world's weakest moped one more spin through hampi's rural veins. i will order one more cheese pizza and not feel guilty that i'm not eating thalis, dosas, or another biriyani. i will watch one more movie at the guest house next door and not be furious if someone else chooses a vin diesel flick. every journey deserves a vacation and mine has one more night.